NMM? NMM: it stands for Non Metallic Metal. Non-Metallic Metal is an easy term to describe a complex technique used by miniature painters where they create the look of a metallic surface, without using any metallic paints.

I'll first let you know my personal feelings about such techniques, since the very phrase "NMM" can spark intense conversations. I personally am not pro-NMM or pro-metallics, I'm pro-"what looks good". I don't like NMM styles that require a static photo for the effect to be fully appreciated, nor "idealized light source" NMM. These techniques do very little for me. I do, however, enjoy creating a more weathered or corroded NMM that will look good in photo and in person.

I have a technique where I use several layers of progressively darkening washes on top of white primer. This can create a very dynamic look and feel when done correctly. So, in this article I'll focus on how I do my personal NMM Oxidized Bronze, which uses this technique. Other examples of this color build can be seen on the PPS Bane Thralls and Bile Thralls, as well as pages 116 and 117 of ESCALATION.

The nitty gritty

For this step by step tutorial, We're going to work on a Bane Thrall shoulder pad up close and personal. First, primed with Krylon white primer, I then let this dry over night at least. Often, with the touchiness of washes, the drying of primer can create a few problems with flow. I personally use distilled water for easy flow with my washes and if you have hard water in your area, I suggest you do the same..

Next, I dive into a "layered washes onto primer" moment. This bronze is all created by thick washes directly onto the primer. It all starts with Vallejo Model Color (VMC) Orange Brown 981/131 covering the entire area and not letting it pool heavily. It's ok that a lot of the areas will show white or seem transparent. It's also not a crime here if a dried edge of paint appears. After several layers with a few dried edges here and there, it leaves a look similar to the veins of metal found in bronze after it's folded many times in a forge and hammered out.

The second wash is half VMC Field Drab 873/142 and half VMC Khaki Grey 880/113. You'll find this layer will leave some blotchiness. That is ok, as it will be add to the oxidized feel as we go.

The third wash layer is Golden Artist Fluid (GAFA) Acrylic Burnt Sienna. This is where we get the red bronze color to metal. More often than not, I tend to hit this wash a second time in areas that I feel need some extra color or need some more tonal value to create contrast between plates or sections.

The fourth wash layer is with GAFA Raw Umber. I try not to go overboard with this one, as it may darken quickly with a heavy hand.

The fifth wash color is where all the magic happens, with VMC German Uniform 920/085. I tend to keep this color fairly thin. While I cover all of the armor, I do go back quickly in areas to pull off this color in the large flat spaces. The important thing is to make sure it's in crevasses to emulate oxidization. On a few areas, I will tend to lay down another spot of VMC German Green and feather it into its surroundings. You can see on the shoulder plates I did this on the corner that points towards the Bane Thrall's chest. Vallejo Model Color does have a "Bronze green" color, but I feel this to be too primary of a color to use in this build.

You can leave this color build well enough at this point, but I like to go one more color to gain the extra pop of contrast. A wash of PollyS Elemental Blue. This is a very difficult color to find and one could also use Citadel Ice Blue as long as you add a touch of green to it, as it is a bit primary out of the pot and doesn't quite hit that perfect tone. After hitting all the needed colors, I then finish up the bone spikes to complete this shoulder pad.

Overall...

You'll find that after doing this color build a few times, you can start to learn how laying down each color with a little bit of care towards light and dark areas and even almost leaving out some color in a few spots can create a very dynamic color build like those found on this Goreshade and Seether.

I will be the first to admit that this technique is not for everyone and will not be surprised if very few will even try it. It is a color build that took a good two weeks to finalize to this degree, but it is worth noting for those that do try it that it has gotten easier for me as time has passed. What I do hope to gain for the masses, however, with sharing this technique, is to open a few eyes to the fact that there is not only one proper way to paint, but many different ways to accomplish a given look and feel. One should never feel that there is only one way to paint, for if that were true, our hobby and art would never grow.

Until Next time
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