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I tend to think of art and science like bourbon and ginger ale—either one's nice by itself but the two mixed together are mighty good. Decals are a perfect example. If you don't have the time or the skill to bust out some freehand on your model (art), you can still use decals (science) to add some tight, crisp detail that makes the model pop.
Working with decals is easier if you know what makes them tick. Decal paper gets most of its "sticky" from dextrose—that's right, corn sugar. High-quality decals will add another layer of adhesive agents underneath the dextrose layer. When you pop the decal in water, the dextrose softens up. This breaks the bond between the decal paper and the backing, allowing the decal to slide around. As the decal dries, the adhesive reactivates.
This basic bit of knowledge clues us in to two key things. First and foremost, over-soaking decals is bad. The more time the dextrose has to soak, the more it will disperse and the weaker your bond will be when the decal dries. Second, the adhesive is independent of the paper itself. That means we can use solvents to manipulate the paper as long as they don't compromise the dextrose and other adhesives.
Tools
At the very least, you need:
- Water
- Decals
- Model
- Hobby knife
- Soft, wide paintbrush (I use a Floquil #3 red sable flat)
It will make the process a lot easier if you also have:
- Tweezers
- A small palette knife
- Colour Shaper silicone painting tools
- Micro-Sol and Micro-Set
- A soft brush to apply the Micro-Sol and Micro-Set
- Cult of Luna's Salvation album, or Opeth's Blackwater Park
- Paint-on gloss varnish (a matter of personal preference - keep reading)
The Micro-products are worth a couple of extra words. Decal paper comes in various thicknesses. The cheap stuff tends to be thick and doesn't take well to the contours of the model. Even average-quality decals (like the ones you get in Flames of War packs or Games Workshop boxes) can wrinkle, crease, or show obvious edges. Micro-Sol and Micro-Set contain solvents that thin out and soften the decal paper without affecting the adhesive. This causes the decal to "melt" around the model's contours and smooths the edges. Micro-Set also improves the adhesion of the decal.
If you're going to use Micro-Sol, I don't think you need gloss varnish. Conventional wisdom dictates that you apply gloss varnish to your decal's future home before you stick the decal on. Decals applied to rougher surfaces (like matte acrylic paint) will "silver"—tiny air bubbles trapped underneath the decal cause it to look slightly frosted when it dries. Gloss varnish gives the decal a nice, smooth surface to adhere to, so no silvering occurs. If you're using Micro-Sol, the decal will soften up enough to conform to the rough surface. I think it blends better with the paint job that way than if you gloss varnish. Photographic evidence will be forthcoming later in this article.
Pick 'em and stick 'em
You need to paint the model before you start with the decals. If you're going to give the model battle damage or weathering, wait until the decals are applied. Everything else—basecoat, shading, highlighting—should be done first.
I'll be working on a Battletech Battlemaster 'mech today, graciously donated by the good folks at Catalyst. I spent countless weekends in high school (that's 1987, kids) with my floor covered in hex maps, playing weekend-long games of Battletech with my geek buddies. This model's in a Draconis Combine 13th Legion of Vega scheme—they've been my favorites for a long time.
You'll also need to assemble your decals and reference material (if any) about where to put them. I don't have much in the way of guides or restrictions with this model, but historical models like Flames of War tanks might require some research. The decals I'm using here are custom-made for Battletech by a company called Fighting Piranha Graphics.
You can start anywhere you like on the model. I generally try to work from the "inside out", just like I do in painting—nail down the hard-to-reach decals first, then work outward to the easiest ones.
Make sure the decal will fit before you put it on the model. There are a number of different sizes on the House Kurita decal sheet, so I pick the one that will fit best in the appropriate spot.
Trim around the edges of the decal as closely as you can. Then drop the decal into a little container of water. I just use one of my palette wells for this. Let it soak for 10-20 seconds. While it's soaking, dab some Micro-Set on the spot where you're going to apply the decal. Pull the decal out of the water with tweezers or a small palette knife (palette knife or dull hobby knife is easier for very small decals) and blot it on a paper towel. Then use your soft brush to slide it onto the model.
Once the decal is on the model, you'll be able to slide it around until it's where you want it. It's easiest to push the decal from the edges. You can do this with your soft brush, but I like the rigidity of the Colour Shapers for positioning.
The decal area will be very wet at this point, with a combination of Micro-Set and water. Wick away the extra moisture with the corner or edge of a paper towel. Then take another soft brush (not your sliding brush!) and apply some Micro-Sol over the top of the decal. Be very careful here. If you nudge the edges of the decal, it may move. Micro-Sol is a solvent that makes the decal very soft, so repositioning after applying it is a tricky prospect. Once the Micro-Sol is on, put the model down and let it dry. It doesn't take long.
The armor plate where I'm applying the House Kurita badge is a little rough—inadequate sanding, primer grit, or little painting table gremlins, I don't know. This is where I think the Micro-Sol really shows its advantage over gloss varnish. The decal is just as rough as the paint surrounding it, but it isn't silvered at all. It looks very natural...maybe even painted on.
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