Pinning Print
Written by Dan "YoungWolf7" Smith   

Pinning is a term used by modelers that refers to the process of using a pin to strengthen a join between two parts. The process is quite simple, but seems to confuse many people just starting out in the hobby. The BrushThralls are here to help.

Items Needed

  • Pin vise
  • Micro drill bit (1/16", 1/32", or 1/64")
  • Brass or aluminum rod in the same diameter as drill bit.
  • Hobby knife
  • Side cutters
  • Carbide tipped scribe (optional)
  • Superglue

Overview

There are 4 main types of joins in pewter scale models: flush, cup socket, cylinder socket and peg. Each type offers advantages to the sculptor and mold maker. Each type also presents unique challenges to modelers.

Flush join: This is possibly the worst type of join. It has no strength by itself unless it has a large surface area.

Cup socket: This is seen primarily on the Cygnar and Protectorate light warjacks. While it offers many options while posing the model, it has no strength.

Cylinder socket: This is by far the strongest join when used properly. It offers some variation in posing a model.

Peg: This is the tiniest of beginnings towards a true pin join, but it rarely holds up under gaming conditions.

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Why Pin?

The biggest reason is to strengthen a bond. Pinning gives more surface area to a join for the glue to bond to, and adds significant resistance to shearing. With a model destined for gaming you need all of the strength you can get. Anyone who has had an arm or weapon fall off in the heat of a battle can attest to the value of pinning. Each type of join can be strengthened by pinning.

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How to Pin

Pinning is really a simple process, it just takes a little time and determination. Start by determining where you want to place your pin. Mark each piece to guide your drill bit. I use a carbide tipped scribe for this. It makes a nice dimple in a soft metal like pewter and works just like a pencil. In a pinch, use the tip of a hobby knife.

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Take your pin vise with the drill bit and drill straight down into the metal on each piece. Usually 1/16" or 2mm is enough. If you have more metal to spare, deeper is better. Once you are satisfied with the holes, take the tip of your hobby knife and lightly score the flat areas that will join. This will give the glue better adhesion.

Copyright-2004-BrushThralls.com.-All-rights-reserved.
 
Copyright-2004-BrushThralls.com.-All-rights-reserved.

Copyright-2004-BrushThralls.com.-All-rights-reserved.

Insert your pin into the hole on the largest piece and cut it off about 1/4" or 5mm above the surface. It's always best to cut too long than too short. Pull it back out and add a drop of superglue to the end. Reinsert it into the hole and allow it to set.

Copyright-2004-BrushThralls.com.-All-rights-reserved.
 
Copyright-2004-BrushThralls.com.-All-rights-reserved.

Once the glue is set on the pin, test fit the mating part on the pin and trim back the pin as necessary. This method ensures that the pin goes all the way into both parts. Once the pin is the correct length, add a drop of glue to the hole on the mating part and the flat mating surface and attach the part. Support the part until the glue sets. There you have it!

Copyright-2004-BrushThralls.com.-All-rights-reserved.

Until next time.

--YW7-- 

 
Tip #15
Always use a sharp knife when cutting. A dull blade will likely slip and ruin your work.