HORDES Warlocks Alternate Color Schemes Print
Written by Rob "Terarin" Strohmeyer   

Trollbloods :: Hoarluk Doomshaper


The Trollbloods can utilize several elements to tie an army together visually. Skin color is probably the dominant choice. If you read any of the background material on trolls, from either Primal or the Monsternomicon, trolls are very family/tribal oriented. Given tribes, or Kriels, will share dominant physical characteristics it is a small leap to assume all the models from an army are blood related in some way, and will have similar skin tones. Clothing is also an important aspect to tying together a Trollbloods army. Like the Circle there is a lot of leather and fur that can be mismatched between pieces. Trollkin, however, all wear tartans or sashing and this is a great way to tie models within a unit, or even unit within an army together. The third element which I think is important for Trollbloods to use for army cohesion is armor and weaponry. Trollbloods will typically be manufacturing their own armaments, or trading for them, so it is easy to use the same techniques for painting metals across an entire army. With these "rules" established, I proceeded to paint my own Doomshaper, keeping in mind skin tones and armor styles I had previously established with my Trollbloods warpack, and a sashing that I could easily replicate on numerous infantry models if I wanted to.

Here's a tip on painting Trollkin: You do not have to paint tartans. In fact, if you want to blast through units quickly painting tartans is not the way to go. Treating this space as simple sashing will go a long way, and you can use a uniform color to tie units and armies together.

As a side note, I put Hoarluk on a piece of cork for a rocky base. Because of his staff, I angled the cork so that his staff would be pointed upwards and would not later interfere with game play.



Color List

This is a list of the colors used:

  • VMC Burnt Umber (#941)
  • VMC Buff (#976)
  • VMC Khaki (#988)
  • VMC Deck Tan (#986)
  • VMC German Cam. Medium Brown (#826)
  • VMC Brown Violet (#887)
  • VMC Green-Grey (#886)
  • VGC Charred Brown
  • VGC Scrofulous Brown
  • VGC Dwarf Flesh
  • VGC Dark Green
  • VGC Sick Green
  • VGC Skull White
  • VGC Black
  • VGC Brassy Brass
  • VGC Sepia Ink
  • GW Mithril Silver
  • GAFA Raw Umber
  • Reaper Armor Grey
  • Black Ink Wash - GW Blank Ink, Future Floor Finish, water
  • Metal Wash mix - VGC Glaze Medium, Brown Ink, Blue Ink, VGC Beasty Brown

Assembly Tip :: Gap Filling

After assembling all four warlocks, Hoarluk was the only one that required any sort of gap filling. Fortunately, this one is easy, and only requires a little bit of green stuff applied to the left shoulder to arm joint and smoothed out to match the fleshy contours of the shoulder.


Recipe :: Trollkin Flesh

The basis for this flesh tone was a more earthy green. For me, the perfect start was VMC Brown Violet, which has a nice muddy green look (despite it's name). The first layer of highlights for this was a 50/50 mix of Brown Violet and VMC Green-Grey. A second highlight of straight Green-Grey was blended in to further the color shift. A spot wash of GAFA Raw Umber was applied to places where there was clear muscle definition, like on the thigh or under the biceps. Finally, a 50/50 mix of VGC Dwarf Flesh and Green-Grey was applied to areas like the knuckles, elbows, knees, and for facial highlights.

Recipe :: Finger Nails

The nails were painted with a base of VMC Khaki. Instead of conventional highlights, thin lines were drawn over the base coat in a 50/50 mix of Khaki and white. These lines simulate grain direction in the nails. A second set of thin lines, pure white, was painted at only the ends of the nails.

Recipe :: Bronze Metal

Speed was of the essence for this stage, so the base was VGC Brassy Brass, and then the metal wash was applied over it. That's it, no highlights or further detailing.

Recipe :: Black Cloth

Wanting to keep the black clothing simple, it was started with a base coat of VGC Black. Simple highlights of Reaper Armor grey were added, and these were toned done with the Black Wash mixture.

Recipe :: Brown Cloth

The sashing was started with a base coat of VMC Burnt Umber. This was washed with the Metal Wash mixture to give it a dark tone, then highlights of pure Burnt Umber were blended back in. A highlight layer of VMC German Cam. Medium Brown was blended on top of that.

Recipe :: Leather

Start with a base of VMC Burnt Umber. This was also hit with the Metal Wash, then brought back up to Burnt Umber. Highlights were a progression of Burnt Umber and VMC Buff in increments of 70/30, 40/60, 20/80 Burnt Umber/Buff.

Recipe :: [White] Straps

The straps that tie the brass scroll canisters to Hoarluk started with a base coat of Khaki. This was then highlighted with VMC Deck Tan. A wash of thinned down VGC Sepia Ink was added over the surface to tone down the colors, and then a second highlight of Deck Tan was added.

Recipe :: Staff

The staff has several steps: The main body, the wood wrapping, and the glowing top.

The main staff body was painted using VMC Khaki as a base, and then darkened with the Metal Wash. Surface areas were then hit with the Khaki again, and highlights of Deck Tan were added.

The wooden wrappings were base coated with Charred Brown. Instead of highlights, wood grain was added by painting grain lines with a 50/50 mix of Charred Brown and Scrofulous Brown, and then again by adding a little bit of white to that mix.

The glowing top was initially base coated with Khaki, and the leather straps were painted with Burnt Umber. Metal Wash was added to darken the recesses. Once dry, VGC Dark Green was washed over the surface. Twice. A wash of Sick Green was added over that, and extended down to some of the wood wrapping surfaces to help with a glow effect. White was added to the Sick Green, at a 50/50 mix, and then washed over the surface again. Finally, a 30/70 mix of Sick Green and White was used to pick out highlights.



Tip #1
Always clean your miniatures with soapy water and a toothbrush before assembling and priming. (Allow them to dry thoroughly of course.)