Don't Scorn the Skorne

I know, I know, one look at the photo on the box, and you think, "man, I can never achieve reds like that." Two points: 1) you might! 2) it's ok! It'f fairly easy to achieve a nicely painted Skorne Boxed Set in a minimal amount of time, with minimal fuss and muss. Let's get to it...

My Palette

• Codex Grey
• VMC Black Grey 862
• VMC Basalt Grey
• Skull White
• VMC Brown Rose 803
• VMC Flat Flesh 955
• Chaos Black
• VMC Turquoise 955
• Bleached Bone
• VMC Black Red
• VGC Scar Red
• Sunburst Yellow
• Black Ink
• Red Ink

If you need a conversion chart from Citadel to Vallejo, here's a handy one to bookmark.

Boxed Set Contents

In your Skorne Box, you should find the following pieces for each miniature:

Morghoul

Cyclops

Of course, you'll have another set of Cylcops parts, with different arms as well. Ensure that you have one set of arms that are marked 'A', and the other set is unmarked.

Titan

If you are missing any parts, contact the This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it , they'll get you squared away in no time flat.

Clean and Assembly

OK, let's deal with the Titan first. The McVeys have a phenomenal write up on assembling the Titan in No Quarter #4. Rather than recreate the wheel, I'll just point you to that issue. If, for some reason, you cannot acquire, borrow, read it, know that you can assemble the Titan without a single pin.

There is a bit of GreenStuff needed, as some of the joins don't align perfectly. On the Titan, the two textures you'll need to sculpt are skin, and leather. Seeing that they are both basically...skin, it's relatively easy. I used misterfinn's suggested mix of equal parts Kneadatite and Apoxie. Wait 30 minutes, and sculpt your skin with a sharp knife.

Now, onto the other models. As always, wash your parts in soapy water to remove any casting residue, and clean mold lines and flash. Fortunately, nearly all of models only needed mold line work, which is easily attened to with a sanding device. The Titan did have some flashing, make sure you check all of the nooks and crannies:

 

Morghoul is a very easy build. You can assemble him without pinning at all, but I felt that the right arm needed a bit of support, as the join is in an odd location. I have pinned the right arm, but am leaving it off for painting purposes:

The Cyclops models are a bit more difficult. Not impossible by any means, but prepare to spend more time with them. Despite my best efforts, I could not get the arms marked A to dry fit together. Time to break out the jeweler's saw.... Cut both arms at the elbow.

Eventually, we will glue/greenstuff together the lower arms and hands like so (these are just dry fit together). Pin and glue the upper arms in place. Pin the right upper to lower arm, but don't glue these together. You'll need the axis to work with when figuring out what the upper arm position should be. You need to use GreenStuff in this step, as you need some time to position the arms perfectly. The pin will support the weight of the arms, and the GS will allow for movement. Once you have the arms in the proper place, add a few drops of CA glue to secure.

Fortunately, the other Cyclops is not as difficult. Pin and glue the right arm into place. The left arm should be pinned to the sword asembly. Utilize the GreenStuff/Apoxie method of assembly again to ensure proper positioning of the arms. I found that I need a little 'device' to counterbalance the drying pieces. I used the lid of one of my paint bottles for the task; use whatever works.

Now, you should have two mostly assembled Cyclops, ready for priming, along with your other models. Prime black, and Day One is complete.