And Then There Was Light

First off, I want to define the objective of this article. I'll be trying to open the door for those painters that are just getting into the world of WARMACHINE, some beginners and some lightly seasoned, and to get them on the board swiftly.

I want to show a few solid speed painting methods that I have found over the years that are very useful to me today. Do keep in mind, my personal definition of "Speed Painting" is how much time I spend painting compared to the amount of finished miniatures. Which would be in contrast to getting miniatures done quickly from time paint lands on the miniature to the time its finished. To the naked eye these might seem like one in the same, but as we go, I'll show you the difference.

As far as getting a box set or any unit ready to roll and table ready, I'm a firm believer in doing things in an assembly line when they have the same color scheme. And when you factor in a few of my techniques, dry time and assembly line very much go hand in hand. The ups and downs of an assembly line are many. Its the balance of getting things done quickly and consistently, and the sanity and unsatisfactory feeling of nothing being finished. With a box set, you have enough difference of models to keep things interesting and keeping you on your toes while you learn to sharpen your technique of laying down a certain color.

I'll also be sharing some color builds that I created just for this article. Some rather bullet proof builds that may or may not need an open mind on how to apply them. Because if I were to teach you the studio Menoth builds, you may be needing a wig from all the hair pulling you would be doing by attempting it.

Now a seriously dedicated painting can do a box set in less than ten days. This sort of thing will come easy once you have some paint time and technique under your belt, but as we all know, were gearing for a more sure and steady pace. Knowing this, here is what we are going for:

• Day 1: Filing and Green Stuff Bases
• Day 2: Pinning, basing and Priming
• Day 3: Base Whites
• Day 4: Working your Whites
• Day 5: Base Reds
• Day 6: Working your reds
• Day 7: Details
• Day 8: Bases
• Day 9: Base Metalics and clear
• Day 10: Working your Metalics

Day 1: Filing and Green Stuff Bases

The first and sometimes most enjoying step is simply opening up your box set and seeing what lovely new pewter metal smells like. I always lay out the parts, double check to see if everything is accounted for and what work I have in front of myself.

The hard ware we are dealing with are 2 light warjacks, 1 heavy warjack and a warcaster. Our Warcaster, High Exemplar Kreoss comes with 3 parts: Main body, backpack and weapon. The Crusader heavy warjack comes in 5 parts: Main body,  boiler furnace right arm, left arm and head. The Revenger light warjack comes in 6 parts: Main body, left arm, right arm, shield, arc node and head. And last, the Repenter light warjack comes in 4 parts: Main body, left arm, right arm and head.

With a few micro files in hand, start working away at the seams on all parts. During the casting process, all parts will have a seam that may almost unseen or high enough that it will take some work. Either way, don't just will nilly around looking for the seam, actively look for where the seam occurs. It may seem like making more work for yourself, but you will thank yourself later on after you primer. Before I took up this habit, I cant tell you how many times I found little areas that needed filing well after priming a miniature. I also make a habit of using a single light source and hitting the piece I'm working on from both sides. With the reflective nature of raw pewter, an edge can easily be hidden due to lack of shadows. Its hard to totally explain this, but rest assured, if you are filing away and shift your light source around while looking for an edge, you'll see what I mean quickly.

Continue working methodically throughout your pieces until you finish the last part. For an evenings work, this can be accomplished pretty easily.

Parting the Earth

Now, this may not exactly be considered a beginners task and something I would consider optional, but the Menoth tend to have a very distinct looking base when they come out of the studio. It is honestly pretty easy once you gain a grasp on how to create the crackled earth of a Protectorate base. If its something that doesn't tickle your fancy, then move on to day 2.

If your still reading, then good. You'll have it easy and find your time well spent. You will need your 4 bases, Green Stuff putty and a sculpting tool with a pointed edge. ( A thick tooth pick or some other round pointed object will also do.) Mix up enough Green Stuff to do 2 bases at a time, drying time will may make it tough to get all four done. Smooth over Green Stuff across the base's surface, just enough so it come flush with the rim. Then with your sculpting tool, start drawing out your pattern of crackled earth, you can make it as corse or as fine as you like, but just keep it consistent. It will push out the Green Stuff from the cracks you create, but after you complete your pattern, take some vegetable or olive oil lightly on your thumb and start a circular pattern of pressure on the Green Stuff to gain a uniform surface and continue to do so, until your happy with the look. Afterwards, finish up the other 3, and let them curve overnight. Don't worry about the oil for now, we will remove that before priming with warm soapy water.