Faction Box in 10 Days :: Legion of Everblight Print
Written by Dan "YoungWolf7" Smith   

Introduction

Nearly two years ago when I sat down to write the first "Box Set in 10 Days" article (for Khador), little did I imagine how successful it would be nor just how much our little website would grow. Looking back at it now I guess we always hoped we would still be going this long, but none of us really expected it. That is all thanks to you, our readers. Thanks for keeping us going and thanks to Privateer Press for supporting us and giving us yet another kick ass game to paint and play!

In case you're not familiar with this series, each article is designed to show you not only that it's possible to put a box set together and paint it for play in 10 Days (or less), but just how to do it with step by step guides and instructions. Enough of me babbling, let's get the Legion rolling, shall we?

This article will be a bit out of the norm, as I only have 7.5 days in reality. I have committed to Fully Painted 2006, and my local HORDES Unleashed event is the following Saturday from the Saturday I'm starting these. Eeek! I know I won't have them totally finished so my goal is to have the models painted and have the bases presentable. Once the event is over, I'll come back and finish up the basing. That's the plan anyway.

Parts is Parts

Let's start with an inventory of what parts you should have in the box. Always check over any miniature you buy to make sure the pieces are all present and accounted for. Packers are human, and errors do happen. In the odd case that you are missing a part or have a defective casting, please contact This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it and they'll take good care of you.

Carnivean

This bad boy consists of 14 parts counting each spike on the 2 sprues on the outside of this picture. PLEASE NOTE: the sprues for those spikes are labeled "LEFT" and "RIGHT" respectively. This correlates to the model's left and right, not yours. I strongly recommend that you don't remove them from the sprues until you are ready to attach them. It will save you a headache later.

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Lylyth, Herald of Everblight

Lylyth's model by contrast is extremely simple. A one piece body and a sprue with her bow and hand, plus and extra arrow for those who want it for modeling purposes.

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Shredders

There are enough parts provided to construct 4 complete Shredders. There are 2 open-mouthed bodies, 2 closed-mouth bodies, 2 sets of hunched legs and 2 sets of extended legs. My friends who are better at math than I tell me there are 6 different possible combinations of parts in each set of two. The legs are completely interchangeable and posable, making even more variety possible. These are my favorite models in the box. They have so much personality I just can't help myself. Then again, I think baby sharks are cute. =)

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All Your Bases...

In addition to the model parts, you should have stat cards for each model and bases. There should be 5 30 mm bases and 1 50 mm base.

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No, the toothpicks in the photo aren't included. You can use the bases as-is and go with a simple basing scheme like the one shown on the box. In that case, just skip ahead. I'm going to spruce up my bases a bit by adding cork to them to make it look like my Legion lives high up in the snowy mountains. For the most part, I'll be following ArkenTyre's HORDES Basing article. You might want to review it to see if this will suit your vision of the Legion.

Day 1: Cleaning and Assembly

Once I have all of the parts identified I set about cleaning the mold lines off and then washing them in soapy water to remove the mold release compund. Many folks skip this step, but more and more it's an essential one. The mold release compound is mostly a fine grade talc. It will interfere with paint adhesion as well as glue adhesion. Not a good thing. Imagine coating your metal parts in Teflon and then trying to paint them. Washing is good.

When the parts are all shiny clean, I set them aside on a paper towel to dry under a lamp. I find this is a good time to work on the bases.

Since I won't be using the tab slots on the bases, I'm going to use a simple and inexpensive trick to fill them. I'll take some round toothpicks and cut them to the proper length to fill the slot in the base. It just so happens that the average round toothpick is just a hair smaller in diameter than the width of the slot. Once it's cut to length I just superglue it into the slot. Easy as pie.

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Wonderful Cork

We have several articles dealing with the specifics of how to use cork on your bases here on the site, so I won't go into great detail. Basically all I'm doing is tearing off chunks of cork tile and gluing them down. I plan to sculpt up some snow at the end, so I'm not concerned with filling in around the sides right now. I just want a flat space big enough for feet to attach to.

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Lylyth

"But YW7! How will I attach my model to the base now?" I hear you ask. Easy. Pinning is the most secure method. I'll demonstrate on Lylyth. Once I've cut the tab off her feet and filed the bottoms smooth, I drill a hole into each foot using a 3/64" drill bit. While I'm drilling holes, I'll drill one into her wrist and the opposite surface on the bow to secure that too.

Once all of the holes are ready in the model, I'll cut lengths of 3/64" brass rod to place in them. For the feet, I eyeball a length that is tall enough to go all the way through the base and up into the feet. It's okay to cut long if you're not sure. You can always trim it back if needed. For the wrist, I leave about 3~4 mm sticking out.

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Pinning through cork is easy. Once the pins are in the model's feet I stand the model over the spot I want on the base and press the pins down into the cork a bit.

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Now that I have guide holes in the cork, I pop the model back off and drill down through the cork and through the plastic base underneath. Once this is done, it's a simple matter to glue the pins into the feet and place a drop of glue on the end of the pins themselves. Then push the pins down through the base until the feet rest flat on the cork. If the pins stick out too far from the bottom of the base, just trim them off. For extra security, add a small blob of green stuff to the end of the pin to cement it to the base underneath.

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Now I test fit the bow onto the wrist to make sure the pin isn't too long. Once everything fits, a drop of glue on both ends of the pin and the bow is glued into place. I'm having my Lylyth hold her bow vertically, as I think it looks better than the horizontal pose of the box set. I've also gently bent the limbs back to show some tension on the bow itself. Fresh out of the box, the bow looks unstrung to me.

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Lylyth is ready to go!

Shredders

As I mentioned earlier, there's a wealth of posing possibilities with the Shredders. I think I'll have to get another box or two to fully explore just how far I can take them. Preparation is simple. I just drilled more 3/64" holes in all of the feet for the pins. You should lightly score the recess for the leg with a knife to give your glue some traction.

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Once you've decided what set of legs to use with what body it's time to assemble. I'm using the putty and glue method. Take a small blob of putty and place it into the recess on the body. Add a drop of superglue to the nub on the leg and press it into place. Any excess putty will splortch out of the cracks, filling them in the process. Trim the extra off to clean up the join. Let it sit for a minute or two and then repeat for the other leg. One Shredder done!

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Repeat the process for the other three Shredders. I'd recommend setting them under a lamp for about 30 minutes to let the putty cure a bit before pinning them to their bases. If you try to hurry the process you'll cause the join to slip and just make a mess. A little patience goes a long way.

At the end of Day 1, here's what I have:

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Tip #19
You can attach your basing material to your base before priming. The primer will help seal it to the base and last longer.