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Page 1 of 2 Protectorate "Cracked Earth" Bases Yes, finally. When I did my very first tutorial on the WARMACHINE forums 2 years ago, little did I know where it would all lead. It's still one of the most heavily linked threads today. I've had numerous requests to update it here on BrushThralls.com, so here you are, updated and easy to find. Step 1: Start with a smooth layer of Apoxie or putty filling in the recess. I let my Apoxie fill in the slot in the base, but you can use tape to cover the slot. Step 2: This is optional, but I like the results. Take a piece of very coarse sandpaper (this is 60 grit) and dab it gently into the putty surface. This will make many indentations and roughen up the surface nicely. Scrape away and slop over the sides with a knife or sculpting tool. At this point, you could simply let this dry and have a good looking dirt base. Step 3: Now we'll begin to "crack" the earth. Take a straight edged tool and start poking straight down into the putty. Whatever you do, don't pull your tool through the putty. This is a common mistake. If you pull, the resistance will distort the cells that you're sculpting and it won't look clean. I found a small chisel shaped sculpting tool that is perfect for this job. Many woodworking blades for X-acto knives would work well too. Keep the blade lubricated so that it doesn't stick and take your time. Once you've done a few passes it will come more naturally. Step 4: Now to finish I take the sandpaper one more time and lightly hit the surface again. This compresses the putty slightly and fills in the cracks a bit making them appear more natural. If you want a smooth finish, simply wait until the base cures. If you're using Apoxie you can sand it down easily to a nice finish. Painting I've come up with 4 different "soil" styles. Feel free to use these or create your own. Paints used: - VMC 119 Green Ochre
- VMC 181 Smoke
- VMC 183 Natural Wood
- VMC 124 Iraqui Sand
- VMC 110 Deck Tan
- VMC Glaze Medium
Method used: - Basecoat with VMC 119
- Wash with 3:dot VMC 183 : VMC 181
- Drybrush with VMC 124
- Highlight edges with 2:1:2 VMC 110 : VMC 126 : GM
Paints used: - VMC 142 USA Field Drab
- VMC 181 Smoke
- VMC 183 Natural Wood
- VMC 124 Iraqui Sand
- VMC Glaze Medium
Method used: - Basecoat with VMC 142
- Wash with 1:1 VMC 183 : VMC 181
- Drybrush with VMC 142
- Highlight edges with 1:1:2 VMC 142 : VMC 124 : GM
Paints used: - VMC 034 Burnt Cadmium Red
- VMC 130 Aramantha Red
- VMC 131 Orange Brown
- VMC Glaze Medium
Method used: - Basecoat with VMC 034
- Drybrush with 1:1 VMC 034 : VMC 130
- Drybrush with 1:4 VMC 034 : VMC 130
- Highlight edges with 1:1:2 VMC 130 : VMC 131 : GM
Paints used: - VMC 131 Orange Brown
- VMC 181 Smoke
- VMC 183 Natural Wood
- VMC 185 Transparent Orange
- VMC 124 Iraqui Sand
- VMC Glaze Medium
Method used: - Basecoat with VMC 131
- Wash with 1:1:3 VMC 181 : VMC 183 : VMC 185
- Drybrush with VMC 131
- Drybrush with 2:1 VMC 131 : VMC 124
- Highlight edges with 2:1:2 VMC 131 : VMC 124 : GM
Play around. Experiment. But be sure to take some notes if you find something you really like. That way you can replicate it as your force grows and not have to reinvent the wheel all over again.
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